Sunday, November 14, 2010

Weddings in Azerbaijan = Big Business!

You may think that the economy here depends on the oil under the Caspian Sea. But if you drove through any of the main thoroughfares in the larger cities, you would know that weddings (called toys in Azeri) are the real business here. For example, along the street to my school there are 5 relatively new "wedding palaces" - buildings whose only business is hosting weddings every day of the week. Weddings are so important in this culture that there are 2 weddings for each couple - the bride's wedding and the groom's wedding. (Yes, they attend both weddings together.)

Weddings are a cultural practice, not a religious one. Since weddings are so important in a family-focused society, it is not surprising that wedding palaces have sprung up as separate entities. Name anything in America related to a wedding, and Azeris have it 10 times over!

Wedding dresses: many look right out of Barbie but I've also seen photos of a Muslim bride in a beautiful white hajib. The bride has 2 dresses - a colored one for her wedding and the traditional white with veil for the groom's wedding.
Jewelry: the bride can hardly lift her hand there are so many rings - with matching earrings and necklaces of course.
Makeup and hair: Beauty salons specialize in wedding parties, i.e. glamour.
Gift baskets: these can be huge baskets of candy, toiletries, food etc delivered to the bride or grooms home.
Furniture: It is expected that the bride provide the furniture and the groom provides the home. All that money given at the toy is expected to pay for home furnishings.
Car decorations: don't get me started on tulle-covered Humvees. I've seen 'em.

A wedding palace offers all the amenities that any family would want for a wedding. They prepare the invitations, the ceremony is held there, food goes on for many courses, dancing for many hours, and toasts. Of course all of this must be captured on video and still photos and a wedding palace provides the emcee, limousines, the band, the food, the photographer, the decor. That's the business of wedding palaces and you'll be reminded of them every time you watch your 4-hour wedding video.

What really intrigues me is the expectation that those who attend contribute a specified amount of money at the end of the evening. In fact, the amount of money is written on the invitation and there is a clerk who records who gives what amount. Money is given instead of a wedding gift.

There is much more to the culture of weddings, but I only mention the industry that surrounds it. As a PC volunteer, I expect to be invited to many toys. However, we do not contribute money to any weddings - we are guests of our host family. And sometimes the attendance of an American can turn into a separate side-show since we are expected to dance along with the other guests. I can't wait!

Saturday, November 6, 2010

School in Sumgayit brings on a nasty cold

It was cold and rainy last week and I started 2 weeks of practicum, i.e. student teaching and lots of contact with  children. I began getting a cold Friday (Oct. 29) and I'm still coughing and blowing my nose. The sinus decongestants and lozenges just aren't working. (I'm not one for taking OTC, but thought about Tylenol Cold something - daytime, night-time, whatever, I could use some.) 

I called the PC doctor so yesterday he arranged to have a car pick me up and take me to Baku 45 minutes away for a physical exam. My complaint is that it has become painful for me to cough - lower left side hurts. Yes, they sent a car to pick me up and drive me to Baku to see Dr. Fuad. He was very thorough. Health and safety of PCTrainees is utmost.

My lungs are clear and it seems I just coughed too hard and that is why my left side is now tender. He gave me some Mucinex, but thinks it really will be several days before it starts to taper off.  I also got vitamin/mineral supplement since recent meals have been mostly potatoes and rice and bread.

IMHO, I really need some rest. We start at 8 in the morning for classes, bring a lunch from home, have 2 hours language class, then go home to study and prepare lesson plans for the next day. It is a grind and I'm not the only one to think so. So I skipped Thursday's afternoon language session and went home and slept. That's when I started feeling better.

My host mom really looks after me and actually counts the layers of clothes I'm wearing before I leave the house. She also kisses my forehead to see if I have a fever! Glad there is always tea on, but the soups can be oily. The host dad delivered a "petch" which is a small natural gas heater and that seems to take the chill out of the house.

I will add that teaching is quite the learning experience. The classes are 45 minutes long and I was assigned to prepare and co-teach 12 - 7th and 8th grade English classes for the past 2 weeks. There are never more than 12 students in a class. One PC teaching objective is to get children to think their own thoughts even if it's just saying their favorite color. 

No photos to add this week. Too bleary-eyed to bother. But I'm working on a blog about the business of weddings in Azerbaijan! Next week - Inshallah!