Getting through February

It's day #3 of frozen water pipes, but I'm not complaining because it's day #10 of frozen pipes for a fellow PCV in Ganca. I'm in the southern region of Azerbaijan, so the cold wave seems not as bad here. And thanks to the year around water-truck delivery system, it is possible to get some water. The truck drove through the neighborhood yesterday, sounding a distinctive horn so that everyone could set out containers to be filled. I regretted not buying large empty jars last Fall, but managed to fill a large canning kettle. And after the truck left, I spent some time visiting with my neighbors over tea.

Although the water pipe from the holding tank to my house runs underground, there's a 10 foot long section that runs up the side of my building. I'm assuming that's where the pipe is frozen and it'll stay that way until it warms up. So far we've had snow every day for the past 6 days totalling maybe 4 inches. School has been closed 4 days due to the weather, and one morning I simply was afraid to walk due to the slipperiness. Here's a wintery scene of a house near mine.

With no water coming out of the faucets, I minimize the use of the water I do have. I use a little bit of water in a basin for washing dishes, heat a bit more to rinse the soap off, but make sure that rinse water runs back into the basin. When that water gets dirty enough, it's used to flush the toilet. I've washed a few clothes, but I don't rinse out the soap as much as I'd like to. Water becomes precious since I don't know the next time I'll have more.

Nevertheless water is essential for the national drink here - tea - which is kept ready for guests. Loose tea leaves are first put into a wire basket inside of a small teapot. Boiling water is poured from the large teakettle into the small teapot to make strong tea. Some of that tea is poured into a cup and boiling water added to fill the rest of the cup. In that way, the tea is strong or weak tea depending upon the amount of tea first poured into the cup. Both teapots are kept on a stove (petch) like mine so it is always hot. For fresh tea, simply toss out the tea in the small pot and start over. Sugar cubes or wrapped candies are always served with tea.

One Week in Winter

In Minnesota I dreaded the last week in January because of the bitter below-zero temperatures. The memory of starting my ice-cold car on such frigid mornings makes me shiver even now. Baku had blowing snow while I was there last week and it seemed so Minnesota-like - except for the poor snow removal and lack of salt or sand on sidewalks.

All week Peace Corps held a Mid-Service Conference for the AZ8's as well as our annual medical and dental check-ups. It was great to meet up with other PCVs, see some city sites, eat at real restaurants, and stay at a hotel. One afternoon I walked with another PCV through the historic old city of Baku where there is a fair trade shop, Enchanted Cottage, which sells items made in Azerbaijan.

In the foreground are buildings in the old city but the background shows one of 3 modern office towers under construction. The old city covers a large area with many shops, hotels, and restaurants within it's walls plus historic sites such as the Maiden Tower.

PCV Elaine and I stopped for coffee at the 5-star Meridian Hotel and took photos from the fifth floor restaurant balcony. We wondered if there was an effective historic preservation organization, since so many older buildings are being torn down or new facades added. It's one thing to have modern facilities, but another to tear down traditional and historic structures.

By nightfall, we walked to the metro station near the old city for a 10 minute subway trip back to our hotel. The entrance to this particular station appears to be a copy of the I.M.Pei design outside The Louve in Paris. No one stopped us from taking photos, and night time felt very safe.

But just to stay grounded about poverty in this oil-rich country, I'm adding a photo of a house across the road from my house in Digah village. The tarp is not a temporary fix; it has been there since last July. I personally think there are people in Baku who have no idea that their countrymen live in such conditions, Hopefully, in time, better education and income will help this family improve their living conditions. Inshallah - God willing.